Two feuding families, two star-crossed lovers, and a plot that unfolds just to keep you hooked. Even over 1600 years ago, the playwrights knew how to keep their audience captivated, as seen by the works of Bhasa. The great 4th century author wrote two such plays that still breathe life to the two ancient cities of India. Bhasa’s Svapnavasavadatta and its prequel Pratijna Augandharayana follow the story of the Vatsa king Udayan and Vasavadutta, daughter of Avanti king Chanda Pradyota.
Avanti was one of the 16 Mahajanapadas of Ancient India as mentioned in the Jain text Angurutta Nikaya, and one of the only surviving ones against the great Magadha Mahajanapada towards the end of that era. As its capital city stood Mahishmati with its eternal glory.

Then came the rise and fall of the great Magadha followed by many dynasties that shaped the political and cultural landscape of India, and through it all a unique culture developed in this city.

As the Mughals fell, the Marathas rose, came the great Peshwa Bajirao Ballal and his general Malhar Rao Holkar. Malhar Rao was made the Subedar of Malwa and was succeeded by his daughter-in-law, Queen Ahilya Bai Holkar, the woman instrumental in transforming Mahishmati into the Holkar capital and a center of trade, commerce and spirituality.

Today we take a peek into the city of Mahishmati, or as you might have heard it today, Maheshwar.

Nestled between the Vindhyas and Satpuras, in the embrace of the holy river Narmada, lies this holy city.

The nearest airport is Devi Ahilyabai Holkar International Airport in Indore, approximately 100 km from Maheshwar which is a 3 hour drive.

Once there, one can explore the Ahilyabai Ghats on the Narmada River, ideal for serene boat rides and witnessing the evening Aarti and visit the Queen’s Fort (Rajwada), a historic fort with Maratha architectural influences.

Maheshwar offers several accommodation options. One notable choice is Aamantran @ Fort Maheshwar, a boutique hotel run by Mr. Ashish Ghate. Located within walking distance of Ahilya Ghat and the Rajwada, it offers a homely yet luxurious stay tailored to your needs.

The next stop should be the ancient temples of Kashi Vishwanath and Ahilyeshwar Temple.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple – This temple is situated on the banks of the holy river Narmada.The Puranas refer to this temple as the Gupta Kashi, or the secret Kashi. It is believed that Queen Ahilya Bai herself established this shrine and the Shiva Linga. The temple’s intricate carvings and serene ambiance reflect the devotion and artistic sensibilities of the Holkar era.

Ahilyeshwar Temple – Queen Krishna Bai Holkar, wife of Yashwant Rao Holkar, commissioned this temple in 1865 as a symbol of the glory of Queen Ahilya Bai Holkar. It took 36 years to complete and was a beautiful tribute to her mother-in-law from her daughter-in-law.

This can be followed by a walk enjoying the peaceful riverbank and the scenic views of the Narmada and the surrounding landscape. Ahilya Ghat is the most famous ghat in Maheshwar, located on the north bank of the Narmada River. It is beautifully maintained and offers a tranquil atmosphere, especially at sunrise and sunset. The ghat features a unique architectural blend of Maratha, Rajput, and Mughal styles. Along the steps and surrounding areas, numerous small and large Shivalingas are placed, adding to the spiritual ambiance.
Visitors can enjoy boat rides on the Narmada and watch the sunset. The evening Narmada aarti, where diyas (lamps) are lit along the steps, creates a magical scene.The ghat is also home to several small temples and royal chhatris (cenotaphs), making it a picturesque spot for photography and reflection

Your trip is incomplete without experiencing the softness of GI-tagged Maheshwari fabrics and witnessing how beautifully they enrich your wardrobe. A Maheshwari sari is an essential addition to any collection, embodying centuries of tradition and women’s empowerment. Passed down through generations, this craft continues to provide financial independence to skilled women artisans, preserving a heritage that is both exquisite and resilient. Explore collections like Vastrtattva, the fashion arm of Aamantran @ Fort Maheshwar, which nurtures this age-old craft with passion and care. Maheshwar’s timeless charm will captivate you, inviting you to return again and again to unwind on the tranquil banks of Maa Narmada, far from the bustle of city life.